We meet again! I’m doing the same sort of things this go around with the two different parts so enjoy!


Monday
We left for Durban Monday afternoon, arriving in the city around 3:00. Amanda has learned that you need to ask a taxi how much they charge before getting in and trying to bargain your way down a bit (most don’t have meters, and those that do are broken or tweaked so you are over charged) – which is exactly what she did. And we didn’t get a taxi. We went back inside the airport to have tea and coffee while waiting for the shuttle for a bunch of the backpackers in the city. When we came out a cab driver whistled us over and told us that he changed his mind and he would be happy to take us at the price we asked (30 rand less than he wanted). Bargain.

We arrived 20 minutes later (our driver was BOOKING IT down the freeway) at the Happy Hippo Backpacker, in a less dodgy area of town than certain parts we drove through. Durban is definitely a city – dirty, tons of people, tall buildings where they manage to house thousands of people, a downtown, posh areas, and mostly dodgy areas. The Happy Hippo was great though! We checked in and then were given a tour of the warehouse turned brightly colored backpacker. Our room was labeled “Babalaas” which we later found out means “hangover” in Africaans. An omen? Luckily not. There were 4 beds, 3 of us, and no one joined us the rest of the time we were there either which was nice. We had tea on the rooftop overlooking the city in the low afternoon glow which was a beautiful introduction to the city. For dinner we walked 8 blocks to the nearest Spaar (grocery store) to get items for a “braai” (barbeque). We had this sausage thing with grilled veggies that we cooked on the rooftop of our backpacker – it was a bit windy so getting the fire going was difficult for Drew (aka Amanda’s boyfriend, so being the boy he was in charge of the barbequing while Amanda and I had beers (we bought him some too!) and played pool). Walking to the store was sketchy though – definitely not something Amanda and I would do at dusk. Fortunately we had a boy leading the way, a boy who is 6’5’’. I was really feeling that I got what I wanted with branching out of the bay area/Colorado bubble I am used to. And we made it safe so that’s good. And our braai was delish too – which we followed up with reading on the couches outside of our room.

Tuesday
You could pay for breakfast to be prepared (from their small menu) which we definitely did. I had scrambled eggs on toast – directly on top of the toast. The eggs here are mildly scrambled – I like mine to have a bit more form and stiffness than liquidy cottage cheese. Whatever, it was good and filling. Amanda and Drew wanted to return to the Victoria Road Markets where you can get cheap, authentic, African goods (aka Christmas shopping). We caught our first bus at uShaka – the big water park and aquarium extravaganza place that is a block away from our backpacker. We switched busses from the S line to the W line to get to the markets. Along the way there were a lot of security/peace/police officers on the bus routs and at every stop, which I didn’t think much about at first. Our friend would later reprimand us for taking the bus because it was not up to her strict safety guidelines (love you Jess!). There have been a lot of small bits of up rest recently affecting the bus system that goes through the main part of the city, including a major strike by the bus drivers which ended the day or two before we landed in Durban (I manage to miss these strikes by a few hours luckily).

Victoria Road is packed with people and street stalls where people try to sell you any and all items. Ripe with pick pocketers targeting outsiders (for example: three Americans – one who is a redhead who stands out a whole lot)(red hair is very hard to come by here, there were two redheads sitting in front of Amanda, Sean and I at church on Sunday….they were the last of my people that I have seen). We went into a large warehouse converted into a two story building with little shops that all carry the same general stuff. We walked around, checking out things we would like to buy, got price quotes, and went on bargaining and haggling store owners like champions for the next two hours. Needless to say, most of my Christmas shopping is done. I will say that I tried to not get things too “African” – ok I know that’s kind of harsh to say since I’m, oh I don’t know, In Africa. Yes, I realize that. I figure that most people I know don’t need fertility dolls and other crazy items. Fun accent pieces that are discreet and will still match décor and style is what I was going for. I bough a lot, a lot a lot. Even a small table for myself (small!)(and very cool!). I will have to buy a cheap suitcase in addition to my very cool, low maintenance backpacking pack (which I packed everything I need in, thank you very much).

We were going to drop our stuff off at the Backpacker, but decided that since it was 2:00 (breakfast was at 8:30), we would stop for lunch at the transfer station. We went to a Pakistani restaurant that had LIFE ALTERING naan. We still talk about it. Kind of a lot. Definitely more than we should. It was that good – the plain, garlic, some cool potato spicy thing Drew got – all good. It’s making me hungry and I just had a huge dinner. Finally back at the backpacker we decided to sleep (Amanda), read then fall asleep (Ashley), or work on a group project and email it off (Drew).

Jess (from camp!) and her fiancé TJ met us for dinner at uShaka! Yay camp friends! Old roomies in staff area! Heck yes. We went to the Upper Deck Restaurant buffet that is on the upper deck (really??) of this old ship built above and in the middle of the aquarium at uShaka. The food and drinks were great (seafood was excellent) and it was so wonderful to finally hang out with Jess again! Included in your meal (100 rand….which equals to just less than $10 – yes I am LOVING the exchange rate here) is the chance to go through the aquarium. I was closed to everyone else except the restaurant so we basically went on our own guided tour by ourselves! Imagine yourself at the Monterey Bay Aquarium (the “zoo for fishes”) by yourself at night, only this is like walking through the hull of a ship (very Disney). So yes, a mix of Disneyland and the Bay Aquarium. Very cool. During dinner Jess yelled at us for going to the Markets (“AMANDA! I told you not to go back there!”) because, as we found out, two Americans were shot there last week. Oops. Then again, if you don’t go every place where someone has been shot or robbed or something then you won’t have a big selection of where to go. After dinner, walking the aquarium, and dessert, we went along the coast looking for Dwali celebrations.

Dwali is a Hindu festival – the Day of Lights (it can be equated to our Christmas). Durban is home to the largest population of Indians outside of India (I thought it was London – oh how I miss the Indian restaurant by my flat!). Jess and TJ were telling us about the celebrations last year and the repercussions people are feeling this year. Last year people were basically allowed to set off fireworks wherever they wanted (significant fireworks, not just the ones we get in a box at a stand in a parking lot). People, building and animals (especially dogs) fell victims to other’s cruelty and curiosity of what these fireworks can do. This year it was very quiet. We saw large fireworks going off in the sky in a far off township, as well as a few smaller ones on North Beach where we just stopped and hung out along the beach for a bit.

From uShaka we drove along the coast to get to these fireworks, and along the way Jess pointed out different interesting places. The amusement park that is sketchy all the time when it’s open (during the holiday season, midsummer in December). A place that used to house snakes. Mini Durban. The most upper class apartment building along North Beach that was bombed by the TRC about 10 years ago (Jess’s mom happed to be on a date there and has a large scar on her arm from a shard of glass pinning her arm to the ground). Amanda has learned about this specific bombing in her classes here which was interesting to put life to that history lesson. After stopping at the beach we were taken to Suncoast Casino. It wishes it was a Casino next to the Bellagio, but sadly it is a casino that belongs in Reno. We walked the halls (which didn’t take long) and then we left. We drove back to our backpacker to show Jess that it’s actually legit, we had a drink on the rooftop bar, then said goodnight.

Wednesday
Breakfast once again at 8:30 – now I’m starting to feel tired from my travels. I had been doing well until now, I even didn’t feel jetlagged when I got here. But now I’m tired. Drew had to worked on a paper during the morning so I slept from 9-11. Jess recommended that we go to Florida Road for lunch and shopping at boutiques then to walk down to Stamford Hill Road to peruse the outlet stores. If my mom were here, Florida Road is where she would be staying. There are cute bed and breakfasts in Victorian Houses aligning the road as well as an equal amount of restaurants (so yes, this is my type of place too). We went into the first boutique we saw and I bought some clothes (I could have bought cute house wares stuff though! Especially since these nice items are cheap compared to the American prices!). We walked up the road till it ended at a park of green grasses and blooming purple flowers on the Jacaranda trees. It was nice to finally see lush vegetation in this dirty city.

And then there were MONKEYS! They were hanging out on the waist high stone working around a gate for an apartment complex. There were about 8 of them playing and hanging around. It was so cool! Especially since I have taken a few primate classes for anthropology I could put some of my lectures to good use. It was great. We walked back down the hill on Florida Road to Cubana Restaurant and Socialist Café. Haha excellent. Sure, Latino and Mexican food is no where near its potential in the UK or commonwealth, but it was still fun. And the unique mojitos were tasty. Here you can get a hookah (“hubbly” is what they are called here) with 6 shooters for 50 rand ($5ish dollars!) or smoke Cuban cigars. We didn’t do either since it was mid afternoon and we knew we were going out that night. We walked 3 long blocks down to Stamford Hill where we checked out the small outlet store for Billabong/Volcom/Roxy/Quicksilver/Fox/etc. We didn’t have much luck but we aren’t too worried – there are larger factory outlets in Jeffrey’s Bay (where we are headed tomorrow, Friday). Tired, we caught a cab back to our backpacker to have an hour or two to sit before going out with Jess and TJ.

While at our hostel, a thunderstorm started – and oh my word it was so loud! It was incredible! It was followed by a torrential downpour of rain which echoed off the cement floors and open areas of the backpacker. Jess and TJ picked us up once the storm subsides and we drove out of the city (of course we had to drive through Central Durban which is uuber sketchy) to their favorite pub where they are good friends with everyone who works there (even the karaoke man).

They got word that day that their friend was killed the night before so a lot of their friends were nto coming out as planned. It came out later that evening that she was killed by a hit and run while she was waiting to catch a minibus to get home late that night. She was found in a bush later this morning having also been mugged (her cell phone was gone). Everyone was obviously shaken who was working at the pub (where she had worked for almost 20 years). Jess, TJ and their friends talked about what had happened and what she was like which was great to hear. There were empty pint glasses on the bar asking for any donations to help with funeral arrangements as well as money for her family (two sons). It was interesting to see how everyone there was able to keep their composure and still try to make the most of the evening (with help from alcohol). It seems that lives are ended far too frequently here, that these things do happen but way too often. People should not have to live in fear – always watching behind you for the next bad thing to happen.

We did have fun at the pub though – between the drinks and the karaoke. TJ happens to be quite the regular and had many solos. Jess and her friends would get up and sing a lot of songs too: Abba, Grease, “I kissed a girl.” Jess and TJ also showed us a dance from the Africaans culture (TJ is full blooded Africaans). It was a fun partner dance which quick steps (but not as quick and tiring as the actual Quick Step). Somehow, I was coaxed into karaoke. And so was Drew (we held out as long as we could!). It was fun and I am glad I had the “liquid courage” going. Amanda and I also sang some Stevie Wonder (duh) which was fun – though it got kinda weird at the end.

Thursday
Awake by 6:00 am. Gross. And the weather was sunny and about 70 degrees, which meant it would be really hot, but the whole time we were in Durban it was cloudy and misty. We had to catch a cab by 6:30 in order to check in for our flight that took off at 8:00. Today has been pretty long, it’s hard to think that was this morning and I haven’t taken a nap or anything. We got back to PE a little after 9:00 and came back to Amanda and Drew’s housing area. It was nice to be back in a place where the buildings outside of Central PE aren’t over a few stories tall and where there is grass and wide roads. Although it’s HELLA windy here, and I’m definitely over that. After showing and eating some peanut butter and jelly sandwiches we went into Central PE to the women’s market. It’s in a big room with a coffee shop in the back (which are very hard to come by in this part of the world). There are lots of hand made crafts and such that are all created to benefit good causes across Southern Africa. They even had some Christmas items out! I have a few ideas for crafts during Decemberfest and I got a cute little beaded reindeer to go with my small Christmas tree tabletop decoration from the Christmas market in Vienna. We caught a minibus back to the Boardwalk for lunch at 34 Degrees South (a cool restaurant which can be found at that latitude). Minibus stops are marked by prominent landmarks I have found, such as: KFC, McDonalds, and the Boardwalk.

The Boardwalk is a protected area of shops that circle a lagoon (think a smaller lagoon than the one at Disneyland in the French Quarter with Tom Sawyer’s Island). The buildings are all white with blue metal roofing. It’s quieter and cleaner here with shops and good restaurants. I mentioned that it is a “nice break…” which Amanda ended with “…from Africa.”

We ate sushi (the ginger is really sweet here, it was weird – I like ginger with a good bite) then checked out the wine selection that was on sale. I picked up a few bottles of wine and a bottle for a crazy Polack and his favorite wife which will probably end up under a festive tree on December 24th…I also found some cute scarves! We walked along the coast to Pick n Pay (grocery store) to get dinner which Amanda made. She cooked an Indian/South African dish that was quite good and filling. We have basically just been hanging out this evening making food and whatnot.

Friday:
Jeffrey’s Bay

Saturday:
Addo Elephant Park

Sunday:
PE market
Seaview (I think that’s the name) – a place where you can pet and play with lion cubs, and big lions!

Monday: begin the long journey home


I will update more before Monday!


Part II will be coming in a day or two.....


(you should know that I’m typing this on Microsoft Word and I have not reached a full 5 pages, single spaced thank you)